Overlanding from Namibia to Angola was a complete wild card. All we actually knew was that this southern African nation was a Portuguese colony for ~400 years and was embroiled in a decades-long civil conflict till 2002. To plan this Angola journey, we figured we’d get to the border city of Rundu, Namibia, collect some native intel on attending to and across the neighboring city of Calai…however we couldn’t discover anybody who had been! Google Maps made it look like you needed to drive eight hours out of the best way to cross the river, and Reserving.com pulled up zero outcomes for motels…however this solely made us extra curious and desirous to discover Southern Angola!
Namibia-Angola Border Crossing at Calai
Crossing the footbridge over the Okavango River, we mentioned goodbye to Namibia and ola to Angola. The immigration officer solely spoke Portuguese, so in our greatest Portuñol pidgin, we defined our four-day Angola journey was for “ferias” (vacation functions) and heard that candy sound of a stamp hitting our passport. We might have been “in” however had no thought what we had been stepping into.
A fleet of moto taxis waved us over. So, with no automobiles in sight, our solely alternative was to every saddle up with a stranger and hope we had been heading to the identical place. Vrrrooom, we zipped by means of the sandy roads and into central Calai: two streets of outlets, an out of doors market, a Portuguese bar…and one guesthouse!
The place to Keep in Calai
We opened the tall gate to the fortified Tchingwali Guesthouse, and we had been happy to discover a tropical backyard, a full restaurant, and good rooms with AC and en-suite baths for $16. Who knew?! As vegans who don’t communicate Portuguese, it was a bit laborious to determine the most effective plant-based choice. Maize porridge is the premise of most meals in Southern Africa and takes many names (pap, ugali, funge, and many others.) and is usually ready thick sufficient to select up and scoop the accompanying veg and meat. We ordered funge, and loved it with sides of untamed spinach with peanuts and slow-cooked beans. After our meal, we ordered one other spherical of Cuca beer, simply because we beloved the native customized of cerveja and a bottle opener delivered by wicker basket.
Authorities Permission to Discover
We knew Calai wasn’t a vacationer vacation spot, however with the famed Okavango River, we figured there can be some water adventures in our future. We requested our visitor home the place we may prepare a ship journey, and so they mentioned, “Nowhere that we all know of, possibly ask by the dock.” They ignored the half that the “dock” was truly a naval base, and so they weren’t so pleasant to unannounced guests.
After assembly with a number of officers and receiving a protracted line of questioning (“Are you making an attempt to cross to Namibia? Why do wish to canoe in case you aren’t fishing? Are you a great swimmer? You understand the river is stuffed with crocodiles, proper?” ), they warmed as much as our thought of a dugout canoe journey with an area fisherman…and so they even needed a selfie to commemorate our journey!
Dugout Canoeing the Okavango River
Donning the fireplace division’s life vests, we joined Segunda for his first foray into river-guiding. He’d by no means had passengers in his canoe, bu knew the river just like the again of his hand and confirmed us enjoyable eddies, lovely islands, and hippo hiding spots. We tipped him handsomely and shared (the most effective!) malasada donuts to have a good time what may simply develop into a brand new chapter in his waterman profession. To assist make this occur, we launched him to the Tchingwali Guesthouse group so they might ship future visitors on an Okavango canoe expedition with the beautiful Segunda!
Highway Tripping Southern Angola
Now to rearrange a highway journey to discover extra of Angola! There have been solely a handful of non-governmental automobiles on the town, and the most effective truck occurred to be parked at our guesthouse. We went out on a limb and requested the vehicle-owner, Peter, if he’d be keen to point out us across the Southern Angola countryside. This sudden request was met with an excellent greater provide to hitch him the next day on his 120km journey to Dirico with a cease to fulfill one of many queens of the Cuando-Cubango province! He warned us it was going to be a protracted day and a tough highway, however to us it appeared like a unbelievable alternative. Off we went on a wild journey down a one-lane freeway, constructed by the Portuguese a century in the past and engulfed with deep sand and thick brush. Between partitions of bushes, we’d catch glimpses of the mighty Okavango River, the occasional grouping of mud-thatch huts, and fields of pearl millet for a scenic drive.
Visiting with the Queen of Mutango
To find out about native life and agriculture, there was no higher particular person to fulfill than Queen Katrina! She graciously confirmed us round her village and farm, and shuck and chew sugarcane just like the boss she is! Our Angola schooling continued within the automobile as I peppered Peter with questions. (I might communicate to him in Spanish and he’d reply in Portuguese, and amazingly, we understood one another sufficient for some deep conversations). Throughout the Angolan Civil Struggle, his dad was a common for the UNITA Insurgent Celebration, which was primarily based on this province of Cuando-Cubango.
Peter instructed us Southern Angola was teeming with wildlife, from elephants to lions to giraffes to leopards, however the combating drove most of them to the protection of Namibia. Though the conflict ended over 20 years in the past, numerous landmines nonetheless litter the province, and he lamented that Angola nonetheless hasn’t fairly gotten on its ft. Corruption could also be rife and infrastructure is missing, however it’s clear you may’t break the spirit of the Angolan folks!
Dirico: The place the Rivers Meet
After a four-hour journey, taking numerous hits from overgrown bushes and yielding to cows, we arrived within the city of Dirico. Atop a hill the place the Cuito River meets the Cubango River, it’s a stunning location and a cheery place. The city sq. is anchored by its namesake signal and backyard with a cute elephant and hippo statue. Adults and youngsters alike had been enjoying soccer, and we may hear a church choir training.
We popped right into a marketplace for some meals and drinks (the primary store we’d seen all day), and a gaggle of teenage ladies swept me up like a long-lost pal. “Selfie, selfie,” they squealed. What began as a photograph op was an impromptu dance session and laughing match.
Angola Journey…SOOO value it!
Earlier than dealing with the darkish and sandy highway again to Calai, we took a second to benefit from the sundown on the bridge over the Cuanavale River. Fishermen hugged the railing and, with only a stick and a line, they had been pulling out tiger fish of epic proportions. Youngsters had been cheering with every catch. Peter, Mike, and I cracked our N’gola cervejas, raised our heat beers over the shimmering pink waters, and toasted an unforgettable journey and new friendship.
Southern Angola Journey Tips
- Rundu-Calai Border Crossing: From Rundu, Namibia it’s a 15-minute cab journey to this river border put up. After doing exit paperwork on the Namibia aspect, stroll throughout the floating bridge to the Angola immigration workplace. No visa or entry payment is required.
- Time Change: Word, there’s a one-hour time distinction between Angola and Namibia. Each borders are open throughout the identical hours, 8am-5pm Angolan time.
- Language: Portuguese is the official language of Angola, with 47 acknowledged native languages. There’s restricted English spoken in Southern Angola, however between that and/or Spanish, folks can typically perceive, in case you communicate slowly. Since I solely know a handful of phrases in Portuguese, I spoke Spanish with a Portuguese inflection, and it labored fairly properly…particularly when mixed with an offline model of Google Translate’s Portuguese language dictionary! Remember to obtain it earlier than you go!
- Cash: The Angolan Kwanza (Kz) is the nationwide foreign money, exchanging at 917 Kz to $1 USD. In Calai and Dirico, the Namibian greenback is broadly accepted, so we by no means wanted to trade cash. Southern Angola is extremely inexpensive, with our lodge working us $16 an evening, a meal $2, and a beer $1.
- Connectivity: WiFi and cell reception are laborious to return by in Southern Angola. If in case you have a Namibian SIM card, it ought to choose up sign in Calai. Finest to obtain maps, foreign money conversions, and media you may want earlier than you go.
- Transportation: Most individuals who come to Southern Angola from Namibia arrive by 4×4 overland autos for tenting adventures. This is able to undoubtedly be enjoyable and a neater alternative, however we’re completely happy to report {that a} journey to Calai can be finished on foot, by moto-taxi, and by befriending somebody with a automobile, lol.
We launched into this Angola journey with zero expectation and some jitters, however had been met with the pure kindness and unbridled journey…precisely what we dream of in journey! We hope you can also take the highway much less traveled to Southern Angola.
