Unakoti had been on want checklist for a very long time. I heard tales of it and varied theories about how these sculptures got here to be. All that I learn and heard made me imagine that it’s a key archaeological web site, which it’s. So, when a possibility came around Tripura, I budgeted a cushty slot for visiting Unakoti. Actually, Kumarghat was my base in Tripura, which is among the two locations you may go to it from. Our plan was to go to it on Tuesday, however by some stroke of future, we needed to pre-pone it to Monday.
It was after we reached there, I noticed so many individuals, many sporting the sacred saffron, carrying water from their rivers to do Abishek at Unakoti. It was the Monday of Shravana month. Instantly, the which means of the place modified. It was not a lifeless archaeological place however a residing respiratory Tirtha. What is called Kanwar Yatra in North India is adopted virtually in each a part of the nation. Younger males and even ladies carry water from distant locations, many carry them in pots tied to a rod and pour it on Shiva within the sacred month of Shravan.
Unakoti actually means one much less a Koti or a Crore, or 10 million. It is among the most lovely archaeological websites that’s mendacity huge open within the hills of North Tripura. It’s a residing Tirtha that comes alive for Ashoka Ashtami throughout Chaitra Navaratri when a good takes place right here. This made me suppose if it was as soon as a Shakta web site as Ashtami, that too throughout Navaratri, is among the most auspicious days for Devi worship. And, as I noticed throughout Sharavan Somvars or Monday folks go to it in numbers.
Legends of Unakoti
The favored legend goes that when Shiva was on his method to Kashi together with Koti or One crore different devatas and his ganas. They made an evening halt at this place with a promise to go away early morning. Nevertheless, within the morning solely Shiva obtained up and everybody else stored sleeping. So, Shiva turned all of them into rocks and he moved on to his favourite metropolis on the banks of Ganga. That is how the sculptures got here to be and so they proceed to be within the rocky area of Tripura. Since Shiva left and the remaining 99,99,999 remained right here, the place got here to be generally known as Unakoti. Irony is that there are outstanding Shiva sculptures and plenty of Shivalingas unfold throughout the location, so did Shiva actually go away?
One other legend says as soon as there was a sculptor who worshipped Parvati and needed to accompany her and Shiva to Kailash and reside with them. When Shiva-Parvati was passing by Unakoti hills, he expressed his want however Shiva was not in a temper to take him alongside. So, he put a situation that if he can create a Koti sculpture in an evening, he’ll enable him to come back to Kailash with him. Nevertheless, within the morning his sculptures fell brief by one and the place obtained its identify as Unakoti.
You’ll be able to select the story that appeals extra to you. Nobody has counted the sculptures, however it’s true that in all places you look there are sculptures. Massive rocks are carved in-situ – as in the place they’re. Aside from them, there are sculptures within the type of Murtis and lingas. Many of those are nonetheless worshipped. On prime of the hill, there’s a shed like museum the place among the giant life-size sculptures are stored. I discovered Vishnu, Hanuman, Sri Ram and Uma Mahesh right here within the varieties that tells me that Ramayana was in all probability sculpted together with different puranic tales of Vishnu and Shiva.
Visiting Unakoti
As quickly as you enter the location by means of a safety gate, and stroll in the direction of the primary web site, you see a wonderful lush inexperienced valley in entrance of you. Neat and steep staircases promise to take you down after which carry you up. As quickly as you begin happening, the large sculptures of Shiva and Parvati glace at you, just like the prelude of a musical. You surprise on the large Shiva bas reduction, with flowing Jatas as if Ganga is keen to fall free, huge earrings and necklace. As quickly as you’re taking your eyes off Shiva, you meet his consort Uma, comparable in dimension and elegance.
From right here if you look down you see a waterfall that gathers right into a pond at common intervals. The primary one is on the intersection of stairs coming from both aspect of hill. That is the place there’s one other huge bas reduction of Shiva, who can be referred as Kotishwara Kala Bhairava generally. Surrounding him are a number of Nandi Murtis in numerous states of decay. In entrance of the rock carving are totally different lingas in stone which are nonetheless worshipped. Because it was the Shravan Somvar, plenty of folks have been worshipping, doing abhishek and telling their needs within the ears of Nandi. A pandit ji was serving to folks with formal puja. Younger males have been taking a dip within the pond whereas ladies of their purple and white saris lit incense sticks whereas saying their prayers.
The water flows downstream and about 100 meters down; it passes by means of a huge Ganesha sculpture that’s surrounded by elephants. The stream is sort of just like the genes that go from dad and mom to the son.
Subrai Khung is one other identify of Unakoti in native Kokbrok language, that you simply learn written simply earlier than the primary Shiva sculpture you meet. Whenever you stand subsequent to this board, you see the sharp rocks standing tall and also you surprise how somebody would have sculpted at such heights. Some sculptures are seen solely if you go round it, which primarily means you might want to go round the entire web site. There are some damaged items mendacity round and one wonders if it’s a crown or a neckpiece.
Residing Temples of Unakoti
Throughout the valley, you might want to climb one other hill to achieve the highest. On the best way I discovered so many Shivalingas beneath the timber, a wonderful Chaturmukhlinga in a small mandapa. Near it on the rocks I noticed Lajja Gauri and one other feminine determine that I couldn’t decipher. On prime, there’s shed with many giant sculptures.
Right here I discovered a platform, with temple like steps resulting in it, the place the Murtis and lingas was being worshipped. A slim melancholy on the rock, that was stuffed with milk, is believed to be the footprint of Vishnu. On the opposite aspect was a small Goria Baba temple the place a priest advised me that that is the unique Kailasg the place Shiva lived. Certainly, the city shut by is known as Kailashahar. I’d later be taught that Goria baba is the Kuldevata of some tribes in Tripura.
As you go up and down the hills, wherever you look there are sculptures. Some you establish, others hold teasing you. You surprise if this was as soon as the most important open-air temple. Was this actually one thing linked to Kashi or the migrants out of India, in all probability in the direction of South East Asia, planted and carried tales from Indian Itihasa-Purana.
Historians date these sculptures to no less than 7-9th CE however that’s only a guess based mostly on model. It might be a lot older. An inscription solely mentions a go to in 11-12th CE indicating it existed earlier than that. To me, these sculptures inform us the deep historic roots of our Puranik tales.
Journey Suggestions
Unakoti is sweet 5-6 hours drive from Agartala. You’ll be able to keep both at Dharamnagar or Kumarghat and go to Unakoti from there. It’s about 45 minutes from both place.
Finances good 3-4 hours for the location. Put on comfy sneakers and carry your water.
Meals is offered exterior the gate.
Sadly, no guides both as a ebook or in individual can be found to present a guided tour.
You’ll be able to benefit from the well-known Queen Pineapple of Tripura on this area.
